The Cluny Museum is the National Museum of the Middle Ages founded in 1843 by the French State. It was
very close to our hotel and well worth the visit. Filled with religious art that includes stained glass
from Sainte-Chapelle. It was a Roman bath (1st-3rd century)then the residence of the abbots of Cluny (15th
century).
It is most noted for the Unicorn Tapestry made before 1500 by an unknown artist. There are 6 tapestries that
interpret each of the five senses and a sixth representing 'Her sole desire'. This tapestry is portraying the
sense of sight. The unicorn is admiring itself in the mirror and is pleased with what it sees while the lion
turns away.
This is the finial unicorn tapestry which takes its name from the words on the tent - "To My Sole Desire". Not
that there is an answer - is it material things or godly things? She seems to be either taking a necklace or
putting it down. This is just prior to the Renaissance with the Dark Ages ending.
After the Cluny we headed to Saint Sulpice for Mass and an organ concert. St Sulpice was originally built in the
12th century. At the start of the 1600s it was decided to build the present day church over the older one. It is
second only to Notre-Dame in size - it follows typical Middle Age construction - a nave with two side aisles
giving access to several chapels. A curiosity are the towers - one is not finished so they are not symmetric - in
fact the unfinished one has a family of falcons living in it who feed on rodents in the Luxembourg Gardens.
A view of the alter. The vault in the ceiling reaches 33 meters just 2 shy of Notre-Dame. The
stained glass windows are hard to see in the picture because they allow so much light into the
church. Using a newly discovered silver-yellow to bond the glass they were able to eliminate much
of the black enamel in other church windows.
St Sulpice has the largest organ in France and has had a world class organist for 300 years
tapping on the ivories. In between services the current organist, Daniel Roth, gives a 45 minute
concert each Sunday. He plays on five keyboards and has 7000 pipes at his disposal.
Chapel of the Blessed Virgin is impressive. In between columns brought from the ruins of the
Roman city Leptis Magna (in present day Libya) is a statue in white marble of the Blessed Virgin
by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle. The chapel was completed in 1774.
From the top of the Arc de Triomphe the Eiffel Tower. Built to celebrate the 100 anniversary of
the French Revolution it continues to draw people.
Virginia Ann on top of the Arc de Triomphe with the Eiffel Tower in the background.
Cal on top of the Arc de Triomphe with the Eiffel Tower in the background.
Arc de Triomphe from the Champs-Elysees. We climbed the 200+ steps to the top. From the Arc we turned toward
the Louvre and strolled along the Champs-Elysees. Stopping for lunch at Laduree (another hint from Tracy
Knight) where we had one of, if not the best, lunch in France. Complete with pastry desert.
After lunch we took the subway to Musee Marmottan Monet where there is the best collection of paintings
by Claude Monet. Cal was in heaven. The mansion contains three floors of sketches, watercolors, chalk and
oil paintings. The museum follows Monet's life chronologically. Unfortunately they do not allow cameras
to enter the building!! So no pictures. Most interesting are the numerous paintings on the same subject
done at different times of the day.
Once finished with Marmottan we headed back to Isle St Louis for some shopping. Then back to the Isle for
dinner at La Castafiore, a great Italian restaurant. The tables were so close together the maitre' de had to
move the tables to allow Cal to sit down. The best part - no smoking - a rare environment in Paris. On the way
back to the hotel a picture from the bridge over to the Isle of St Louis of the Right Bank.
Notre-Dame was on the way back to the hotel and Cal could not pass without at least one picture.