Journey Across Southern India

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Thursday, 13 December 2018 - Explored historic Cochin with its island-harbor setting and great bay views, walked to a community laundry co-op to see local life and washing traditions, visited St. Francis Church, the oldest European church in India, and learned about Portuguese, Dutch, and British influences before enjoying fresh seafood near Brunton Boatyard and ending the day with traditional dance and storytelling in the old city.

india2018 — After breakfast we had some time to look around the hotel grounds. Just behind the hotel was a docked a cruise ship.

india2018 — A Kingfisher with a small crab

india2018 — Virginia Ann and Cal in the Taj Malabar Resort.

india2018 — Our guide, Bijou, makes a stop at a community laundry co-op where they wash, dry, iron, and fold clothes for local residents and nearby hotels.

We parked the car and walked to a community laundry co-op where they wash, dry, iron, and fold clothes for residents and nearby hotels.

india2018 — Pressing the colorful clothes

india2018 — Beating the clothes to clean them

india2018 — A mural at the entrance to the laundry - the Dhobi khana public laundry

india2018 — Fort Cochin is the oldest European settlement in India, and St Francis Church is the first European church built in India.

The St. Francis Church was built in 1502 as a Catholic parish. In 1663, the Dutch converted the church to protestant and in 1795, the British converted it to Anglican. Today it is the Church of South India, a combination of Anglican and protestant.

india2018 — We learn that in this part of India, Christians and Catholics are in greater numbers than in all of India representing 25% in this region versus a mere 2.5% in the rest of India.

Christ's Apostle Thomas arrived in this area in 52 AD where he began converting people to Christianity. Thomas then walked from Aleppey around the tip end of India and up the other coast to Chenai where a Brahmin killed him because they were fearful of his power of conversion.

india2018 — In 1498, Vasco de Gama, a Portuguese exporter came to this area.

india2018 — Cochin's seaport, which was built by the Portuguese/Dutch and British, was designed for exporting fish, tea, coffee, and spices.

Chinese fishing nets are a type of stationary lift net in India. Each net is operated by a team of up to six fishermen.

This way of fishing is unusual in India and almost unique to the area, as it was introduced by Chinese explorers who landed there in the 14th century. Indeed, one interpretation of the city name Kochi is 'co-chin', meaning 'like China.'

india2018 — These fishermen were moving the net from the shore into the boat - and removing all the little silver fish in the process.

india2018 — A proud fisherman displaying a fresh fish

india2018 — One of several fish markets along the shore.

india2018 — Fresh fish laid out for sale

india2018 — A rusty boiler on the beach

india2018 — Very old tree with many parasitic plants growing on the branches.

india2018 — We stopped at the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica.

india2018 — The Basilica was built originally by the Portuguese and elevated to a Cathedral by Pope Paul IV in 1558, was spared by the Dutch conquerors who destroyed many Catholic buildings. Later the British demolished the structure and a new building was erected in 1887. Consecrated in 1905, Santa Cruz was proclaimed a Basilica by Pope John Paul II in 1984.

india2018 — There are seven large canvas paintings on the passion and death on the Cross

india2018 — The interiors of the church are mostly Gothic

india2018 — The columns are decorated with frescoes and murals.

india2018 — In the 15th Century, the spice trade attracted the Portuguese traders and paved the way for European colonization of India. The Portuguese were ousted by the Dutch who in turn were weakened by warring Indian rulers who then succumbed to the rising power and control of the British East India Company. It has the highest literacy rate and the highest life expectancy rate in India. It is one of the most prominent tourist destinations with its back waters, beaches, Aryuvedic tourism, and tropical greenery.

After India was partitioned in 1947, into India and Pakistan, Kerala merged into the States Reorganization Act of 1956 becoming a Communist-led government.

Kerala means land of 3-C's: Coconuts, Christianity, and Communism. It is thought the literacy rate is so high because of the influence of early Christian missionaries combined with a socialist government committed to providing a good and free education to all.

india2018 — A banana cart - note the many types of bananas - red, yellow, and green - big and small.

It is hard not to fall in love with this beautiful South Indian state of Kerala on the southwestern Malabar Coast. The people speak the beautiful lilting, sing-song language of Malayalam. It is India's 22nd largest state by area and the 13th largest by population. The region has been a prominent spice exporter since 3,000 BCE.

india2018 — The Jewish connection with Kerala started in 573 BCE. Arabs also had connections with Kerala starting before the 4th Century BCE selling goods to Israelis.

The Red Quarter House was a Jewish home now operating as a hotel. In 2010, there were only 10 Jews in Cochin and 2018 marked the 950th Anniversary of their arrival to Cochin. Today only 5 Jews remain who are all octogenarians.

india2018 — Ornate wooden touches on the homes.

india2018 — The first Jewish synagogue was built in 1568 and is the oldest in the British commonwealth. There were as many as 3,000 Jews from the 17th to 18th centuries.

The first Jewish Synagogue was built here in 1568 and is the oldest in the British Commonwealth. From the 17th - 18th Century there were as many as 3,000 Jews.

india2018 — Synagogue Street with many shops leading to the synagogue seen with the tower in the background.

india2018 — Interesting that the sign is balanced on top of a hindu carving.

india2018 — Jew town alley.

india2018 — The synagogue from the opposite side of the building - the synagogue itself is the building on the right.

india2018 — Remnants of the Portuguese and then Dutch influence are seen in the palace built for the Cochin King.

india2018 — Virginia Ann loved these parasols - it took quite a bit of convincing to keep her from buying one.

india2018 — We did not expect to see Che Guevara on the streets of India - but there were a lot of hammers and sickles.

india2018 — Cleaning the ceremonial lamp outside a temple

india2018 — We learned about the 3 Gods:
1. Brahmin = Creator
2. Vishnu = Protector
3. Siva = Destroyer

india2018 — We stopped for a delightful seafood lunch near the Brunton Boatyard in the historic Heritage Hotel.

Then it was back to our hotel for a shower, afternoon tea with shortbread and ginger snap cookies before heading to the old city for a traditional dance and evening of storytelling.

india2018 — We attended the dance early to see a museum and watch the dancers apply their makeup.

india2018 — A young lady performed a classical dance first

india2018 — Very expressive

india2018 — Second were two men providing a traditional kathakali show - which uses hand gestures and facial expression to tell a story.

india2018 — Some of the hand gestures being demonstrated

india2018 — A story of intrigue and betrayal

india2018 — The actor playing the king in the story

india2018 — Cal and Virginia Ann in front of the Christmas Tree at the hotel.

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