Saturday, 3 December 2016 - Started before dawn with a boat ride on the Ganges at sunrise, watched floating candle offerings drift along the river, explored the sacred ghats of Varanasi including Manikarnika and Dashashwamedh, saw pilgrims and sadhus at the water's edge, observed cremation rituals and holy life along the banks, and experienced the energetic and spiritual aura of one of India's oldest cities.